Watch Reviews

Palms-On Debut: Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Regulator Restricted-Version Watch

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Following up the Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Regulator watch comes the second main “collaboration” watch by Swiss watchmaker Louis Erard. This time, the design collaboration is with cult horology watchmaker Mr. Vianney Halter, and the result’s simply as well-conceived as the primary train of this clever new watch design advertising and marketing formulation.

It is rather a lot the case that most individuals who find out about Vianney Halter merchandise can not afford one not to mention discover the one they need. Forward of his time (as many artistic individuals within the watch area appear to be), Vianney Halter’s actual profession started when he created his personal eponymous model. His identify went a bit extra watch-space mainstream when he was chosen by Max Busser to be the third “Opus” watch collaborator at Harry Winston within the early 2000s. The Harry Winston Opus 3 stays among the many most beautiful — if troublesome to supply — watches out of the Max Busser (who later went on to discovered MB&F) Opus assortment at Harry Winston.


Vianney Halter might be higher identified for his visionary method to watchmaking and eye for design relatively than his engineering precision. Halter is really at his finest when working with others who give him the chance to assume large or merely execute a extremely particular imaginative and prescient. With Louis Erard, that’s the total level of this collaborative design train. It begins with the limitation that the visitor designer produces one thing within the Louis Erard Regulator watch household. From there, designers seem to have freedom with parts equivalent to actions, arms, dials, circumstances, and straps.

For instance, a earlier collaboration watch with Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein was additionally a regulator, nevertheless it had a distinct motion (completely different issues and was manually wound), and a distinct case, along with after all a distinct dial and hand set (to not point out strap). This means that Louis Erard is giving its esteemed friends quite a lot of leeway in how they need their regulator watches expressed — being conscious of the necessity to produce fairly, not stratospherically-priced luxurious watches.

Vianney Halter himself could be very open about the truth that the collaboration with Louis Erard has allowed a brand new part of the watch fanatic market to understand his model of paintings and design. Vianney Halter, as a member of the celebrated AHCI watchmakers group, can be the one that legitimized “steampunk” as an aesthetic that would work within the luxurious watch area. That is as large a deal as having luxurious watches impressed by video video games — and now that can be changing into commonplace. Watches equivalent to Vianney Halter’s famed Antiqua are a few of the finest examples. Extra lately Vianney Halter has explored his appreciation for extra modern science fiction with watches such because the Star Trek-inspired deep House Tourbillon, however the Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Automated Regulator hearkens again to when Vianney Halter was designing timepieces for Jules Verne.


The watch makes use of a motion that isn’t actually that widespread but — the Swiss Made Sellita SW266-1 automated. It operates at 4Hz with about 38 hours of energy reserve and encompasses a regulator-style show with the minutes, hours, and seconds on completely different dials. On the rear of the case, you may see the motion by means of the caseback window. Over the dial is an AR-coated domed sapphire crystal, and the polished metal case is waterproof to 50 meters.

On the wrist, the case is 42mm-wide and 12.25mm-thick. I discovered it to be large-wearing with the distinguished lugs, however on the strap, it wore very, very comfortably. Even the case crown is exclusive to Vianney Halter. The dial is the place most individuals are going to spend their visible time, and it’s a very devoted mix of the regulator idea Louis Erard needs to advertise and the fashion of early, unbiased Vianney Halter.

The dial appears to be like like one thing a Klingon gentleman would possibly put on, imbued with a late Nineteenth-century air of fine, clear style. The dials for the time info are very simple to learn, as you would possibly anticipate on a traditional pocket watch. Vianney Halter returns his signature “fountain pen-style” arms, that are produced by him in addition to flame-blued for colour. The wonderful proportions and attention-grabbing but stylish shapes on the dial make for a traditional-seeming watch face that however calls consideration to itself. Basic Vianney Halter — and precisely what the acknowledged mission of this watch was meant to be.

Vianney Halter chosen an attention-grabbing alternative for the accompanying strap that rapidly makes a case for itself as soon as you place it on. The strap is an “Oceania” blue Nubuck calfskin leather-based with matching xxx. The high-end suede feels beautiful to the contact however extra importantly wraps comfortably round your wrist to be able to maintain the watch case’s bulk in place. Whereas the timepiece doesn’t include one other strap, the provider Nubuck leather-based strap has quick-release spring bars that assist you to strap in one thing else. I think about a gray- or blue-colored lizard pores and skin strap would look attention-grabbing as effectively.

Louis Erard and Vianney Halter have related to supply the watch as a restricted version of 178 items, together with a customized wooden presentation field. Louis Erard has scored twice with their novel collaboration idea which picks up the place the development for watch trade collaboration merchandise left off a few decade in the past. What’s completely different in the present day is the accessibility level with costs that merchandise from such masters just some years in the past would have been unimaginable. Value for the reference 85237AA51 Le Regulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter watch is 3,500 CHF. Be taught extra on the Louis Erard web site right here.

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