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After the success of its vintage-inspired, diver’s-style Hudson, Maen Watches — based by two Dutchmen however based mostly in Stockholm — seemed for inspiration in one other widespread heritage idea: the automated sports activities chronograph popularized within the late Sixties. The place the Hudson drew nearly all of its DNA from the Rolex 6538, the brand new Skymaster 38 from Maen is a loving ode to pilot’s and sports activities chronographs from the golden age of watches, just like the Daytona and El Primero. However I’d say that the Skymaster, just like the Hudson I reviewed virtually two years in the past, manages to maintain simply sufficient of its personal id to face by itself 4 lugs.
Maen’s Skymaster additionally represents a major leap by way of worth level for the model. Now geared up with the STP1-11 (the Hudson utilized the ETA 2824-2 when initially launched), the Hudson retails for round $500, a powerful worth contemplating what you get by way of classic vibes and Swiss-made development, however the brand new Skymaster 38 with its modular ETA 2894-2 will set you again someplace round a cool $1,000, relying on the trade charge and strap or bracelet choice, which is probably a screaming deal for a Swiss computerized chronograph. The query then turns into: Has Maen accomplished sufficient to justify this transfer within the course of the upmarket?
As a lover of dive watches and all issues diving, I’m stepping a bit out of my consolation zone with the aviation-oriented Skymaster to see the way it stacks up in a crowded microbrand scene.
Microbrand Chronographs, or the Lack Thereof
Earlier than getting too far into the Skymaster itself, we’d like some context. Glancing throughout the extra widespread microbrands, we’re confronted with a sea of three-hand automatics, most of that are of the diver’s or on a regular basis fashion, with the odd modular GMT sprinkled in for impact. Frankly, there simply aren’t that many microbrand computerized chronographs available on the market, seemingly an impact of the price related to mechanical chronograph calibers and the place of most microbrands, which tends to be oriented extra towards the entry degree. Most frequently, the buyer contemplating an computerized chronograph is left with choices from main manufacturers usually at main worth factors, which makes this Maen Skymaster all of the extra compelling.
A Charming Reverse-Panda Dial
One facet of Maen’s total method is the big selection of variations provided by the model for every of its fashions. The Hudson got here in both 38 or 42mm, with black or blue dials, with or and not using a date, and with completely different chapter rings, and that’s all earlier than you choose whether or not you’d like a strap or bracelet. Whereas out there in just one measurement (38mm), the Skymaster does are available a big selection of dial variants, although when requested, I needed to go for the white on black “reverse panda” configuration so well-known to look at fanatics from a sure model chances are you’ll know whose classic chronographs have reached a more-than-modest degree of recognition in recent times. Transferring on.
Set in opposition to a sandblasted matt- black main dial floor, the Skymaster dial has a dressier, upmarket really feel in comparison with the Hudson, due to utilized three-dimensional rectangular polished metal hour markers, every with the tiniest blob of lume at their outer finish, paired with polished baton-style fingers that additionally function a slim band of luminescent materials. Whereas lume is at all times a pleasant function on a sports activities watch, the lume on this piece isn’t nice and doesn’t final significantly lengthy, although I’m assured your telephone may additionally present the time in a pinch.
Minute monitoring is dealt with with easy printed white hash marks between the indices, and a really slim chapter ring, set at a steep angle to the dial, is once more printed white-on-black with Arabic numerals on the five-minute positions with what seems to be 1/fifth of a second graduations between, although it’s been some time since I received new glasses.
Including distinction to the Skymaster dial design are the white sub-registers, the supply of the reverse panda nickname, and a strong nod to the Sixties chronographs from which this watch attracts a lot of its inspiration. Fortunately, and not using a date operate, and with the sub-registers positioned within the 3, 6, 9 association, this dial is enticing, symmetrical, and legible, whereas giving a extra luxurious really feel than you’d anticipate for the value. Properly performed, Maen.
Mid-Century Case Structure
Constructing on the extra luxurious really feel introduced by the Skymaster is a well-done and slim case design highlighted by a pair of distinguished faceted lugs, that are drilled, brushed on their internal floor, and polished elsewhere — a pleasant distinction to the steep brushed case sides. Alongside the three o’clock aspect of the case, we’ve the normal chronograph format with pump pushers flanking a signed, non-screw down crown, although the Skymaster does provide an affordable 50 meters of water resistance I gained’t be testing anytime quickly. In use, the pushers provide constructive motion and a loud click on that actually lets you recognize you’ve accomplished what you got down to do, although it isn’t fairly nearly as good by way of tactile suggestions in comparison with (admittedly far more costly) column-wheel operated chronograph calibers.
Reinforcing the journey or aviation theme of this piece is a slim, bi-directional bezel full with a 12-hour aluminum insert, which retains the classic vibe robust whereas legitimately including much more utility past the already helpful chronograph.
Once more making for a bevy of choices, the Skymaster might be had both with a field part acrylic crystal or a equally profiled sapphire glass at a further expense. Whereas the acrylic vs. sapphire argument is at instances approaching Hatfield and McCoy ranges of rivalry I gained’t get into, suffice it to say that acrylic is a pleasant choice that’s maybe extra proof against massive shocks with out the chance of shattering however will scratch simply, although it may be polished simply as simply, whereas it’s actually arduous to scratch sapphire, however simpler to shatter it in comparison with acrylic. That’s so far as I’ll go.
When it comes to put on, this 38mm-wide by 47mm lug-to-lug case is great on the wrist, particularly if you’re, like me, on the smaller finish of the spectrum by way of wrist measurement or just accustomed to the scale of classic watches. The peak of solely 12.9mm can be fairly respectable for an computerized chronograph, particularly when you think about that the case peak with out the crystal is barely 10.9mm, actually svelte for one thing like this, and a watch that’ll simply make its method beneath a cuff with none assist, an element aided by the bracelet.
This bracelet, but an alternative choice along with a wonderful tropic-style rubber strap, is frankly fairly good for the value, with an total brushed end and little polished parts on both aspect of the middle hyperlink. Beginning at 20mm on the lugs, this bracelet additionally tapers to a vintage-feeling 16mm-wide clasp that’s operated with a two-button launch. My solely actual gripe right here is the excessive degree of issue I had in adjusting this bracelet, which options screwed hyperlinks. It may very well be there was merely an excessive amount of Loctite on the screws on this specific pattern, however even with the entire appropriate instruments and a good quantity of expertise on this kind of factor, it took me some time, and I left just a few screw heads worse for put on.
Modular Motion
Flipping the Skymaster over, we’ve a mineral glass preserving watch over what is maybe the one greatest worth proposition on this watch, the ETA 2894-2, a modular execution of the venerable 2892, a caliber lauded for its increased degree of refinement and slimmer construct in comparison with the 2824 you most likely know. Even with the chronograph module on high and naturally a rotor, the 2894 nonetheless solely is available in at 6.1mm in comparison with a svelte 3.6mm for the essential 2892. Nonetheless, in comparison with the portly Valjoux 7750 at 7.9mm, the 2894 is a slimmer, inexpensive choice that appears to do the job in addition to might be anticipated on this worth vary.
When it comes to spec, the 2894 mirrors with the 2892, beating at 28,800 vph or 4 Hz, that includes hacking and hand-winding, and a 38-hour energy reserve, actually not dangerous for the cash. The pattern I reviewed additionally stored time at a greater than sufficient +6 sec/day common when worn. You will need to accompany any point out of a modular motion with the realities concerning servicing. Fairly merely, many watchmakers is not going to service modules ought to the necessity come up, as a substitute merely opting to switch the module itself or in some instances your entire motion, a probably costly repair that potential patrons ought to pay attention to. However once more, at this worth, you most likely haven’t thought that far forward.
35,000ft Overview
Taken collectively, this Maen Skymaster is one other robust effort from one of many extra charming microbrands in current reminiscence, each by way of visible design and in addition the inclusion of the 2894 caliber. And, scanning the Web and the microbrand panorama, there merely aren’t a variety of choices on this worth vary for an computerized chronograph in any respect, and even fewer that exemplify a nod to a design period with out dipping a toe too deeply into homage territory.
When it comes to what you get for the cash, I’m undecided you are able to do so much higher if you happen to’re in search of a vintage-style chronograph with tastefully executed design parts and of a kind of journey or aviation-inspired fashion. Once more, evaluating this watch to Maen’s Hudson, the Skymaster does really feel like a reasonably important leap by way of execution and worth that may seemingly current a Goldilocks-type impression for lots of microbrand patrons on the market. The Maen Skymaster 38 is on the market for preorder from MaenWatches.com for round $1200 (relying on trade charge) as reviewed with the bracelet and sapphire crystal improve.
Essential Information
>Model: Maen
>Mannequin: Skymaster 38
>Value: $1,200 as reviewed relying on trade charge.
>Dimension: 38mm-wide x 12.9mm-thick x 47mm lug-to-lug.
>Would the reviewer personally put on it: Sure.
>Pal we’d advocate it to first: The fan of classic Mid-Century aviation and design in search of a sporty chronograph with out the necessity for a second mortgage.
>Worst attribute of watch: The bracelet actually gave me some bother however was truly fairly good, as soon as sized. Maybe, as I usually inform my spouse, I’m just too robust?
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