Watch Reviews

Watch Assessment: Mühle Glashütte S.A.R. Rescue Timer Lumen

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The S.A.R. Rescue-Timer is a mainstay in Mühle Glashütte’s assortment of extremely purposeful and strong watches, purpose-built for the German Maritime Search and Rescue Affiliation (DGzRS). And whereas most of us won’t ever want a watch to face as much as the trials of a rescue operation within the tumultuous North Sea, it’s at all times good to know you’re carrying a watch that may stand as much as a lot, far more than you’ll ever want it to. The unique S.A.R. Rescue-Timer, which was produced in collaboration with the DGzRS, got here with a black dial and outsized luminous markers. With its latest iteration of the now-classic S.A.R. Rescue-Timer, Mühle Glashütte has flipped the script with a completely lumed dial set off by outsized black markers and skeletonized black arms.

With a watch just like the S.A.R. Rescue-Timer, it’s exhausting to pinpoint essentially the most distinctive characteristic – is it the über-legible monochromatic dial or the distinctive case form with hooded lugs and rubberized bezel? Powerful name, however I’ll begin with the case because it’s actually in contrast to anything on the market. Constructed from stainless-steel, the S.A.R. Rescue-Timer measures in at 42mm; nonetheless, that measurement is a bit misleading. The case tapers from the caseback to the crystal (somewhat than having straight, slab sides), so on the wrist, the watch seems visibly smaller than 42mm. This impact is compounded by the black rubberized bezel framing the dial. Add in a 20mm strap and the impact is a watch that wears smaller and extra comfortably than its dimensions would recommend.


As with every good device, type is derived from operate. So, to understand why the S.A.R. Rescue-Timer seems to be the best way it does, it’s worthwhile to think about why the watch was made within the first place. The S.A.R. Rescue-Timer was produced to swimsuit the wants of the German Maritime Search and Rescue Affiliation, a company that has 60 cruisers and boats patrolling North Sea with personnel specifically skilled for maritime rescue missions. When the DGzRs collaborated with Mühle Glashütte within the improvement of the watch, that they had particular necessities that wanted to be fulfilled. Excessive water resistance known as for a 4mm-thick crystal and 1000m of water resistance; shock resistance required rubberized bezel; avoiding spring bar failure was achieved by using hooded lugs and screw bars; and, to maintain the watch from catching on materials or injuring individuals being rescued, the watch wanted comfortable strains and easy surfaces all through the case and the crown tucked away at 4 o’clock. In different phrases, the aesthetics of the watch are derived nearly totally from purposeful issues. Whether or not these resonate with you or not is one other matter. Personally, I’m an enormous fan of well-made instruments whether or not on my wrist or in my workshop, so I definitely respect the consideration that went into every aspect of this watch, and so they make me respect the distinctive look all of the extra.

I discussed that, visually, the watch wears smaller than you would possibly count on at 42mm; nonetheless, the heft is definitely there. That is undoubtedly not a light-weight watch and it feels as bombproof because it seems to be. That’s to not say it’s overly heavy, simply strong. The lug-to-lug size is ~49mm, however the robust curvature of the lugs ends in a watch that hugs my 6.75” wrist with out overhang. As a result of I like strong watches with excessive water resistance, I spend a good bit of time carrying dive watches. The S.A.R. Rescue-Timer offers you that very same confidence-inspiring feeling of carrying a dive watch, however I’ve been appreciating how simply it slips underneath cuffs doesn’t catch on something with all the sleek strains. One factor I do surprise about is how effectively the rubberized bezel will maintain up over time. The comfortable materials will possible decide up marks extra simply than a metal bezel (although these marks will likely be much less noticeable). Personally, I wouldn’t change it — I just like the character it offers the case and, if it did get gouged, I’d fortunately simply swap out the bezel when it’s time to get the watch serviced.

The dial on the unique S.A.R. Rescue-Timer was all about most visibility and legibility – simply have a look at these large triangular markers at 12, 3, 6, and 9! The S.A.R. Rescue-Timer Lumen is not any exception, however now that legibility is even stronger at evening with the addition of a full-lume dial. Lume freaks will likely be very, very comfortable. The dial coloration is named cream, however I’d name it extra of an off-white. It’s definitely not a pure white, however I personally wouldn’t go as far as to name it cream. Mühle Glashütte doesn’t specify which Tremendous-LumiNova they use, nevertheless it glows as a cool blue (so maybe C1?) and doesn’t bleed via as a muted inexperienced through the day like C3.


To enhance the daring, black indices on the white dial, Mühle Glashütte provides skeletonized black arms, which lead to a cool impact through the day and evening. I dig it. The seconds hand can be black however has a shiny pink arrow at its tip. Usually, I dislike the watch trade’s over-reliance on pink as an accent coloration for seemingly every little thing, however Mühle Glashütte’s restraint right here (not including a completely pink seconds hand or further pink textual content) works fairly effectively, and provides a contact of visible curiosity with out being overbearing.

Watch aficionados are fairly specific about date home windows (myself included) and Mühle Glashütte appears to have dedicated each date window sin that brings out the pitchforks: date window at 4 o’clock, cyclops date magnifier, and a white-on-black date window that contrasts the dial as a substitute of matching. And but, it really works. The date placement at 4 o’clock aligns with the 4 o’clock crown, which offers visible stability. And, as a substitute of a date magnifier on high of the crystal (which tends to draw mud and a few see as a wart on the crystal), Mühle Glashütte locations the magnifier on the within of the crystal. Sadly, my eyes aren’t what they as soon as had been, so I for one, respect the date magnifier if there’s going to be a date. Lastly, the white-on-black is smart visually – when you’re going to name consideration to the date, it’s logical to make the date a focus and visually distinction towards the dial whereas retaining the monochromatic coloration scheme. Don’t get me mistaken, I feel the watch would look nice with out a date, however the best way Mühle Glashütte executed the date window merely works with the general function-focused and funky aesthetic of the watch.

Now, we get to the strap – to me, that is the one facet of the watch that lets it down… however fortunately, you’ll be able to select to buy the watch on rubber or bracelet as a substitute. The textile strap has leather-based backing and is sturdy and well-made, however the points are two-fold. First, the strap is kind of quick – even with my comparatively small 6.75” wrist, I used to be on gap 5 of seven (I’m normally on the second or third gap for many straps), that means that the strap merely received’t match massive wrists. Second, the painted stripes and textual content really feel a bit low-cost and, to my eyes anyway, are over-the-top for the aesthetics of the piece. A easy, striped NATO-style strap would have been a simple possibility so as to add coloration. Lastly, the strap is kind of stiff and I didn’t discover it very comfy, although I’m positive it could break in with time. So, for many of my time with the watch, I mounted it as much as an Erika’s Originals MN strap, which did the trick. Sufficient complaining in regards to the strap – it’s an particularly minor problem contemplating you should purchase the watch on a custom-fitted rubber strap with an overbuilt clasp for a similar value or pay 100 euros extra for a bracelet. Personally, I’d go together with the rubber strap and change issues up infrequently with an Erika’s Originals or NATO-style strap.

A pair fast notes on the lugs and lug-width. Although the web site lists the watch as having 22mm lugs, the lug width is definitely 20mm – my guess is that it’s listed as such as a result of the rubber strap and bracelet flare out on the case to match the huge hooded lugs. Now, the lugs are definitely going to be a divisive aspect, however from a performance standpoint, they’re glorious. I’m an enormous fan of screwbars as a substitute of springbars just because they’re so strong, and hiding these beneath the hooded lugs ensures that you simply’re not going to dislodge a springbar merely from smacking the watch towards a rock. Overbuilt for ease of thoughts and to serve a goal – precisely what I’d count on from Mühle Glashütte.

The S.A.R. Rescue-Timer Lumen is powered by the Sellita SW 200-1 automated motion. Nonetheless, with the intention to earn the Glashütte designation on the dial, the motion is considerably reworked by Mühle Glashütte. Apart from a {custom} rotor and ending, Mühle Glashütte provides their patented woodpecker-neck regulator. That is an fascinating various to the traditional swan-neck regulator and modification that permits the regulator to withstand motion throughout influence between the fine-adjustment screw and counter-pressure spring. The tip result’s a shock-resistant motion that may be regulated with excessive precision. In different phrases, they’ve taken an already strong and time-tested motion and made it much more strong and purposeful. Works for me.

So, who is that this look ahead to? Properly, technically the German Maritime Search and Rescue Affiliation, however you definitely don’t have to be spending your days rescuing errant sailors from sure doom to benefit from the S.A.R. Rescue-Timer. In case you respect the aesthetics of this piece, both on their very own benefit or due to the purposeful issues that led to this distinctive look, then it is a watch that definitely received’t allow you to down in relation to the tough and tumble. In case you’re out there for an overbuilt device watch, chances are high that you simply’re already taking a look at German stalwarts like Sinn and Damasko. Whereas Sinn has provided full-lume dials in some limited-edition fashions, Damasko affords various totally different fashions with full-lume dials, each with and with out timing bezels all in roughly the identical value bracket. That mentioned, the aesthetics of the S.A.R. Rescue-Timer are certainly one of a sort, and there’s actually nothing else prefer it. If the aesthetics of this watch resonate with you, the S.A.R. Rescue-Timer is definitely value an extended, exhausting look (particularly at midnight). The Mühle Glashütte S.A.R. Rescue-Timer Lumen is accessible for €1850 (together with VAT), on a textile or rubber strap and €1950 on bracelet. For extra data, please be sure you go to the model’s web site.

 

Mandatory Knowledge
>Model: Mühle Glashütte
>Mannequin: S.A.R. Rescue-Timer Lumen
>Value: €1850 together with VAT
>Measurement: 42mm-wide, 13.5mm-tall, 49mm lug-to-lug
>When reviewer would personally put on it: Anytime, however particularly after I’m heading out mountaineering or on any type of journey.
>Good friend we’d suggest it to first: Fan of function-first aesthetics who needs a purpose-built watch that may stand as much as just about something. Additionally, somebody that desires extraordinarily excessive nighttime visibility.
>Finest attribute of watch: Implausible legibility day or evening and bombproof development.
>Worst attribute of watch: The textile strap, nevertheless it’s a simple swap.

 

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