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Earlier in 2021, Japan’s Citizen made large waves within the watch business house by saying a slew of recent mechanical watches, together with new computerized mechanical actions. Whereas the Citizen Group’s Miyota motion manufacturing unit has been repeatedly making quartz and mechanical actions for a while, it has been over a decade since Citizen, as a model, launched a brand new mechanical motion. The 2021 Citizen information about mechanical watches began with the announcement of costlier Citizen Calibre 0200, which later resulted within the debut of the brand new Citizen Sequence 8 watches which might be each extra inexpensive and function a relaunch for the legacy Sequence 8 product household.
Please reference the above-linked article for extra details about the bigger Citizen Sequence 8 watch assortment, which incorporates 830, 831, and 870 Sequence fashions. This assessment will give attention to Citizen Sequence 8 870 reference NA1004-87E. It is a top-level Sequence 8 watch that has a sister mannequin referred to as the NA1000-88A, which differs solely in that it has a silver-colored (versus black) dial. These are at present the most costly Sequence 8 items, however they’re nonetheless roughly one-third the value of the fancier Citizen Calibre 0200 fashions. Since I’ve now had an opportunity to expertise each fashions, I’ll rapidly reply the query of whether or not the Calibre 0200 (which has a very completely different sort of mechanical motion) is value the additional cash?
From a wristwatch fanatic’s perspective, sure. That mentioned, it’s a bit odd for Citizen to return out with two superb merchandise on the similar time, in the identical product class, even when, to Citizen, these are two very several types of merchandise. The Calibre 0200 and the Sequence 8 are each modern-looking dressy watches with a recent, barely sporty twist to them. The Sequence 8 is the extra trendy of the 2 in relation to design, whereas the Calibre 0200 is richer with extra particulars, higher ending, and components produced with smaller tolerances.
The Calibre 0200 is for well-funded watch collectors who wish to deal with what Citizen has already introduced will probably be restricted manufacturing. It’s a Grand Seiko competitor, through-and-through, and will probably be naturally unique, in addition to coveted. Citizen did a superb job with it in most respects, and I’ll talk about it extra in a separate assessment. For functions of the Sequence 8, Citizen created a high-end, albeit extra mainstream, gown/enterprise watch that’s outstanding as a result of it actually doesn’t attempt to be a Euro-style watch. The Sequence 8 is completely Japanese in its design, manufacture, and inspiration.
Whereas the 40mm-wide metal case is dressy in total profile and character, its form is wealthy with trendy traces and sharp angles. The distinctive bezel development is supposed to eschew perceptions of what a gown watch can appear to be, and the usage of a brand new mechanical motion is an announcement to the world that Citizen now has one thing that’s pretty much as good as what comes from Switzerland, not simply similar-looking. Citizen (like Seiko) is presenting itself as an genuine horizontal competitor to equal European manufacturers. It is a elementary (and possibly extensively welcomed) shift in technique from what was “cheaper than the Swiss, however related in sensation and superior in reliability.”
The 100-meter water resistant case is on the beefy aspect, nevertheless it goes with the theme and continues to be comfy on the wrist as a gown watch. As soon as once more, it’s 40mm-wide, 10.9mm-thick, and has a lug-to-lug distance of about 48mm. Over the dial is a flat sapphire crystal with AR-coating on the within, and the caseback is strong (sadly, there’s no view to the motion). Going again to the sapphire crystal, I discovered that it collected fingerprints somewhat simply. Since Citizen is a grasp of fabric coatings, I wager a finger grease-resistant sapphire crystal coating can be actually appreciated by lovers.
The Sequence 8 870 comes paired with a handsome-looking matching metal bracelet that has simply of contact of taper to it. The flat, brushed H-style hyperlink design works however will not be as unique because the Sequence 8 870 case with its fascinating aspect profile and two-piece bezel. The bracelet does, nevertheless, shut with a comparatively flush push-button deployant clasp. Extra so, I do know that Citizen actually needed to maintain it elegant with the design, however I did discover the spartan caseback design a bit lackluster. I recognize that Citizen would possibly wish to hold exhibition home windows for particular fashions solely (just like the Calibre 0200), however I feel customers would love some visible hints as to what the Citizen designers had in thoughts when designing the 870 watch’s case.
The Sequence 8 870 dial is a masterful execution of what many individuals consider after they take into account well-done Japanese wristwatch dials. It’s traditional however has trendy components, the least of that are within the design of the fingers and hour markers. The dial is deliberately minimalized, with a spotlight not on additional design components however somewhat on making every of the prevailing options on the dial as good to have a look at as potential. This contains a superb shiny end for the face, and the great distinction you get with the finely brushed and polished utilized hour markers. The dial can also be absolutely painted with luminant, however in a method that doesn’t take away its enchantment as a sublime formal timepiece.
The dial includes a window for the date, with a body that matches the ending of the hour markers. The dial can also be a bit unusual for having the precise identify of the watch assortment on it. One other fascinating design aspect is how the second hand is two-tone. The counterweight is black to distinction the brushed metal tone of nearly all of the hand. It makes for an fascinating and intensely delicate impact.
Contained in the 870 watch is the in-house-made Citizen caliber 0950 computerized motion that’s really being launched on this look ahead to the primary time. The motion is simply 4.1mm-thick and might be considerably related in structure to the Miyota 9000 motion collection, although I don’t assume they’re the identical motion in any respect. For one factor, the Calibre 0950 has 50 hours of energy reserve and operates at 4Hz. Winding it’s a bit smoother than an ETA motion, and the general operation is predictably refined. Citizen claims a -5/+10 seconds per day timing price efficiency expectation for the Calibre 0950. These marketed numbers are sometimes on the more severe aspect of precise efficiency, whereas these numbers are much more correct by way of efficiency expectations with most of the different Miyota actions. The tech specs are higher for the Calibre 0200 motion, however the 0950 is nothing to scoff at — and bests loads of the competitors at this worth level. I simply want a few of it was seen since wearers can solely think about what it seems to be like (the motion does have ornament on it, by the best way). Lastly, Citizen claims the caliber 0950 “offers enhanced magnetic resistance,” implying that there’s a formidable stage of magnetic resistance within the motion with out the necessity for particular shielding.
With the Sequence 8 870 watch assortment, Citizen makes a daring assertion to the remainder of the watch business, and a compelling worth proposition to customers. On the one hand, the identify to beat proper now in high-end Japanese watches in Grand Seiko. Citizen has all of the model would possibly and heritage to have an appropriate competitor, and it’s transferring in that path. The Calibre 0200 tries to match Grand Seiko toe-to-toe, whereas the Sequence 8 is a extra mainstream response to high-end Seiko given the appreciably lower cost level. The Sequence 8 is de facto meant to compete with high-end Seiko gown watches however finally ends up providing one thing nearer to a “Grand Citizen” expertise (versus simply being a elaborate go well with watch).
Citizen has tried to enter this worth class for years — particularly in the USA — with numerous actually cool merchandise ported over from Japan. Sadly, many gadgets, such because the Citizen Campanola within the Citizen Signature assortment, by no means actually took off an excessive amount of outdoors Japan. With the Sequence 8, Citizen tries one thing on this worth class by providing a mechanical watch. Most of its earlier makes an attempt had been with high-end quartz watches. Whereas high-end quartz may have its mainstream heyday, Citizen was, sadly, a bit forward of the instances with a lot of its high-end quartz watch choices after they initially debuted. For now, a lot of the standard watch group continues to be enamored with all issues “mechanical.”
So right here it’s, the proudly Japanese and completely modern go-anywhere gown watch from Citizen within the type of the Sequence 8. Properly-funded collectors will be capable to decide up the Calibre 0200, however for many individuals, that a lot pricier mannequin will probably be overkill. The Sequence 8 870 gives a conventional high-end Japanese watch expertise designed for a global market and at a fair-feeling worth. Citizen can definitely get extra thrilling with colours and ornament sooner or later, however as quickly as I wore the Sequence 8 870 on my wrist for the primary time, I instantly knew this product household must be in Citizen’s assortment for fairly some time. Value for the Citizen Sequence 8 870 reference NA1004-87E watch is $2,000 USD. Study extra on the Citizen watches web site right here.
Essential Information
>Model: Citizen
>Mannequin: Sequence 8 870 reference NA1004-87E
>Value: $2,000 USD
>Dimension: 40mm-wide, 10.1mm-thick, and ~48mm lug-to-lug distance.
>When reviewer would personally put on it: Best in a enterprise surroundings or skilled social setting. Straightforward to take pleasure in all-rounder watch that unpretentiously matches in most locations.
>Good friend we’d suggest it to first: Euro-skeptic enthusiastic about their first good watch. Humble design lover who needs a critically first rate timepiece that doesn’t have a reputation folks will decide them for carrying.
>Finest attribute of watch: Case may be very engaging. Dial is legible and high-quality trying. Snug to put on on the wrist. High quality deployant clasp. Compelling efficiency from new computerized motion.
>Worst attribute of watch: Crystal attracts smudges; caseback is a bit plain.
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