By 
Simply launched for Geneva Watch Days 2021 is the brand new H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Calendar. The third iteration of the Streamliner, the Perpetual Calendar takes Moser’s most prolific complication and applies to it what has grow to be the model’s breakout assortment. There usually are not many metal perpetual calendar watches with built-in bracelets and 120m of water resistance, particularly at this value level. With Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendars promoting effectively into the six-figures, the market is craving what manufacturers like Moser are providing.
Should you’re unfamiliar with the fundamentals and background of Moser’s Streamliner, I like to recommend studying my article concerning the inaugural Stramliner Flyback Chronograph right here and our David Bredan’s in depth evaluate of the three-hand Streamliner Centre Seconds right here.
The Streamliner Perpetual Calendar case/bracelet is completed in the identical brushed metal and elegance as its predecessors, although it’s considerably thinner than the flyback chronograph. Measuring 42.3mm-wide and 11mm-thick with out crystal (nearer to 12 with), it feels balanced and safe on the wrist as a result of cushion-shaped case and that snug bracelet. I imagine this Blackor fumé dial is similar anthracite grey that was launched with the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph. Additionally, I’m liking the brand new clear lacquer emblem on the dial that we first noticed on the Pioneer Mega Cool earlier this 12 months.
Again in 2005, then-newly relaunched H. Moser & Cie launched itself to the watch world with the Perpetual 1 that debuted the HMC 341 Perpetual Calendar motion, which went on to win the 2006 GPHG Sophisticated Watch Prize. Its minimalist structure, potential to set the date ahead and backward, and, sure, interchangeable escapement module, have made the HMC 341 Perpetual Calendar a mainstay of the Moser lineup.
Moser has launched a few perpetual calendar actions within the 16 years for the reason that debut of the HMC 341, with the HMC 800 and HMC 808 for the Pioneer assortment coming to thoughts. With this launch, we see the brand new manual-wind HMC 812 Perpetual Calendar motion that refreshes and updates the trendy basic for the Streamliner with out messing with what makes it so nice. The obvious replace that Moser followers will discover is the elimination of the small seconds subdial and the addition of a middle seconds hand. As a result of this, the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar has 4 central arms: hours, minutes, seconds, and month.
Moser’s Perpetual Calendar dial structure is a superb instance of financial system of design. The 12 hour indices across the circumference of the dial additionally function indices for every of the 12 months of the 12 months, with the small purple and white central arrow pointing to the present month. It’s elegant in its simplicity. As with all Moser Perpetual Calendars, the leap-year indicator is discovered on the motion facet with a purple arrow designating whether or not it’s a intercalary year or not.
At 10 o’clock, you’ll see the indicator that lets you know the way a lot of the hefty seven-day (168 hour) energy reserve is left, with a purple zone for the ultimate 48 hours. Reverse the ability reserve indicator at 4 o’clock is the large date show that instantaneously adjustments at midnight. For anybody not completely aware of Moser’s perpetual calendars, the power to set the date ahead and backward is so uncommon that I don’t imagine some other model does it.
The HMC 812 has motion finishes which might be as spectacular as one would count on from a higher-end Moser, and I’m a fan of the darker tones right here. By alternating anthracite-gray PVD coating and anthracite rhodium plating, the HMC 812 has a moody and up to date really feel to it — fortunately, not too up to date, although, as the old fashioned touches like gold chatons and double-crested Moser stripes are on full show. Working at 18,000 vph, the HMC 812 has a minimal seven-day energy reserve, although I imagine it could actually truly go for nearer to 9.
The H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Calendar is, certainly, a distinct segment watch in concept, however dealing with one within the steel is important, because it have to be skilled in its entirety to be able to be absolutely appreciated. Immaculate ending on the case, bracelet, dial, and motion make for the entire bundle, a must-try for patrons jaded with the hype across the normal suspects. The Streamliner Perpetual Calendar is priced at $54,500. You’ll be able to study extra at h-moser.com.
Comments